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Hello, luv!

Hi there!  

My name is Martha and I am a single, retired woman from the Denver area who is a big fan of Rick Steves tours.  Since my first trip to France in 2012 I have been hooked!  I am in love with England and decided to take the Villages of Southern England tour in the fall of 2018.  

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CORNWALL

Day 9:  Bye Devon, hello Cornwall!

As we moved steadily westward toward Cornwall we made a stop at Lanhydrock House, a country estate that reminded me of Downton Abbey.  I loved this stop, it was a great change from medieval towns and ruins and as I went through the house I fantasized about being the Lady of this manor.  It was owned by nobility for centuries before being gutted by fire in the Victorian era.  It was remodeled in the height of style for that time and still looks the same!  When it was donated to the National Trust in the 1960s the family left behind everything and it has not only the furnishings but the flotsam of everyday life.  Like we were just coming for a visit!  Well, except that there were ropes stopping us from sitting in the chairs and taking a bite of the food!  Since we were there in October the gardens were a bit dormant but would have been beautiful in the summer.  We had plenty of time to tour both the house and the gardens and pick up some lunch in a cute little café.  

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In the afternoon we got off the bus in the small port village of Port Isaac, where the PBS show Doc Martin is filmed.  We walked down the steep, winding streets to the harbor.  This is a typical small Cornwall fishing villages curled around an ocean cove and is charming.  I haven't watched the television show so the landmarks were unfamiliar to me but I enjoyed wandering around and smelling the fishy air.  There were lots of tiny walkways winding through the houses and they were fun to explore on the way back to the bus.  

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We landed in Penzance in time for a rest then dinner together in the hotel.

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 Day 10:  Pasties and tin

Cornwall is known for their pasties so on this day we learned how to make them....  They are bits of beef, potato, onion, and rutabaga wrapped in a dough and baked until golden.  Yum.  The owner of the Portreath Bakery told her story of coming from a modest background with a series of tragedies to build a business that is well known, big, and profitable.  An inspiring woman and we made our own lunch to eat by the ocean.  We had to be careful not to let the gulls swoop in and grab them from our hands while we watched the sea.

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For centuries tin mining was a big source of jobs and income for the people of Cornwall but they have now all closed.  Abandoned tin mines dot the landscape in this peninsula and we stopped briefly at the haunting ruins of the Carn Galver Mine along the coast.  Our final destination was the Geevor Tin Mine which had been shut down in the 1980s and has reopened as a museum.  Our guide had worked the mine and was an interesting fellow in his own right.  The mine was left as it would have been the day it closed, complete with dirty boots and a tin jug for tea.  Above ground we had a demonstration of how the ore was drilled and then a tour of the mill where the stone was crushed to extract the tin.  The people who chose to do so (about half of our group) went through a bit of the underground tunnels.  I did and it was very cramped, low, and damp.  Not a place I would want to spend my days.  

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That day it was very foggy and damp outside...  While it reminded me of Poldark and was atmospheric it was not so good to see Cornwall's lovely coastline.  We were in our big bus and the roads are quite narrow so it was a bit challenging for Paul.  For me it was fun to watch him navigate and pass cars with tight hedgerows on either side.  He is a great driver and was quite the personality.  A great addition to our little group of travelers.  

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In the evening Mark took us on a walking orientation of Penzance and we each split off as we saw someplace good for dinner.  I ended up with a group of 4 other tour members and we had a fun chat in a the oldest pub in Penzance.  Fish and chips and cider for all!!!

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Day 11:  All around the ocean

Our last day in Cornwall dawned foggy again but cleared as the day progressed.  We took a quick bus ride and then an even quicker boat ride to St Michael's Mount.  This is a very small island with what was once an abbey perched on top.  There is a stone causeway for access at low tide but was under water when we were there.  Now the island has a private residence at the top with a very steep, rocky, path upwards.  I just took the walk slowly and it was worth it to explore the medieval buildings and see the views.

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That afternoon we took a short train ride to the beach resort town of St Ives for a lovely relaxing time hanging out and wandered on our own.  I poked in and out of some shops and then went to the beach for a while.  And, had some ice cream.  There are lots of cows and dairies in Devon and Cornwall so I did my best trying them all!  Great frozen treats here!  

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The evening was for another pub dinner with group members.  We were really getting to know each other, we had plenty of laughs with our pints.   

BRIT BITS:
Pubs and drinks
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You knew that I would chat about pubs, didn't you???  Well, here you you go....

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Pubs are all over the British Isles--even the smallest village has at least one.  They are "public houses" and have historically been a focal point for the residents to gather for local news and a pint of beer.  Now many have traditional food on the menu but some just have snacks.  They all have lots of alcohol.  But pubs are not at all like a bar in the states.  They are welcoming to all ages and often even dogs.  Mostly they are dark wood and cosy but some are more modern. 

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I find pubs a terrific place to go to relax and have a bite to eat.  As a single, I often sit at the bar and chat with the bartender.  They are great sources of information and cheer!  I have also been in a few pubs that have local music.  Nothing better than hearing folk songs while having a pint.   A great way of getting the flavor of a place! 

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Speaking of flavor, don't discount British drinks!  Yes, they have awesome beer but I found all sorts of great liquid refreshments, both alcoholic and non.  

 

I have already mentioned fruit cider.  Unlike in the states, all British cider is alcoholic and I love it!  I find that it is both sweet and tangy with a fruity taste. Generally pubs have cider on tap as well as beer.  Yum!  

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I also found many different soft drinks in England, often local to the area we were exploring.  They were my go-to drink for lunch.  

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